Stitch Dictionary

Playin' Hooky's Crochet Stitch Dictionary



Welcome to my little stitchionary. Here you can find standard stitch definitions along with special stitches, other pattern abbreviations, and even crochet in different languages, and standard hook and yarn sizes.  

I hope this will become your go-to reference for basic crochet stitches and pattern reading tips.

Send me an email with your ideas for adding stitches, terms, or general crochet knowledge!

There's more to come so bookmark and pin this page so you always have it at your fingertips.

Disclaimer: This is the list I've compiled for my patterns. Most of the terms here are standard, but some aren't. You may see some of the special stitches called a different name by other designers.


STANDARD STITCHES
These are the US crochet terms. Scroll down for some stitch translations.


· ST: Stitch - Shorthand for “stitch”.

· CH: Chain - Shorthand for "chain".

· SL ST: Slip Stitch - Insert hook, YO and pull up loop and through 1st loop on hook.

· SC: Single Crochet - Insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

· HDC: Half-Double Crochet - YO, insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

· DC: Double Crochet - YO, insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through remaining 2 loops on hook. 

· TR: Triple Crochet - YO twice, insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop, (YO and pull through 2 loops) three times.

· DTR: Double Triple Crochet - YO three times, insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop, (YO and pull through 2 loops) four times.

· FP--: Front-post -- Crochet - Working the stitch indicated in the pattern (fpsc, fphdc, fpdc, fptr...) insert hook from front to back around the stitch body from the previous row. Finish the st according to the pattern instructions and the descriptions above. You will YO once or more before inserting your hook when working the taller stitches: bphdc, bpdc, bptr...

· BP--: Back-post -- CrochetWorking the stitch indicated in the pattern (bpsc, bphdc, bpdc, bptr...) insert hook from back to front around the stitch body from the previous row. Finish the st according to the pattern instructions and the descriptions above. You will YO once or more before inserting your hook when working the taller stitches: bphdc, bpdc, bptr...

· RSC: Reverse Single Crochet - Worked in “reverse” (from left to right for right handed crocheters; from right to left for left handed crocheters), work as sc.


WHERE TO WORK

· BOTH LOOPS: Both Top Loops - Work in both top loops of the stitch from the previous round. This is the standard way of crocheting.

· BLO: Back-Loop Only - Work in the back loop of the st. This will be the one farthest from you as you see it.

· FLO: Front-Loop Only - Work in the front loop of the st. This will be the one closest to you as you see it.

· BBO: Back Bar Only - (photo tutorial coming soon)

· SAME: Same Stitch - The same st as the join, at the base of your beginning ch 1.

· NEXT: Next Stitch - Skip the st at the base of the join and work your first st in the next stitch.
  

WHERE TO START

· Magic Ring - See my photo tutorial, or my video tutorial for full explanation.

· CSC: Chainless SC FoundationSee my photo tutorial for full explanation.

· CHDC: Chainless HDC Foundation - See photo tutorial for full explanation.

· CDC: Chainless DC Foundation - See photo tutorial for full explanation.

· Chainless Foundation in the Round - See photo tutorial for full explanation.


OTHER PATTERN ABBREVIATIONS

· R1: Round 1 - A shorthand way to indicate a specific round.

· YO: Yarn Over - Wrap or lay yarn over hook.

· BEG: Beginning - The first st (or other indicated space) of the row/round.

· REP: Repeat - Repeat the instructions starting at the asterisk ( * ).

· SK: Skip - Skip the indicated st. 

· PREV: Previous -  The st or round you just worked.

· JOIN: shorthand for ending each round - Slip stitch in the 1st st of the round.

· RS: Right Side - The side that will be displayed on your finished hat (the outside).

· WS: Wrong Side - The side that will not be displayed in your finished hat (the inside).

· FO: Fasten Off -  Cut yarn tail. Pull up the loop on the hook and pass your yarn tail through. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

· IF: Invisible Finish - Use when fastening of for a cleaner look. See my photo tutorial for a full explanation. 

· TURN: Turn - Turn your work to the right or left so that you are now looking at the other side.



DECREASES

· iDEC: Invisible SC Decrease - Insert hook into front loop of stitch (do NOT yarn over), insert hook into front loop of next stitch. At this point your hook will be inserted into BOTH stitches you are decreasing over. YO, pull up a loop through both stitches, YO, pull through both loops on hook. Counts as 1 st.

· SC2TOG: SC Decrease - Insert hook into next st, YO and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, YOand pull up a loop, YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook. Counts as 1 st.

· HDC2TOG: HDC Decrease - YO, insert hook into next st, YO and pull up a loop, YO, insert hook into next stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through all 5 loops on hook. Counts as 1 st.

· DC2TOG: DC Decrease - YO, insert hook into next st, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, insert hook into next st, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook. Counts as 1 st.


SPECIAL STITCHES

· ESC: Extended Single Crochet - insert hook into next st, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through 1 loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.


HOOK SIZES

· B-1 / 2.50 mm
· C-2 / 2.75 mm
· D-3 / 3.25mm
· E-4 / 3.50 mm
· F-5 / 3.75 mm
· G-6 / 4.00 mm
· 7 / 4.50 mm
· H-8 / 5.00 mm
· I-9 / 5.50 mm
· J-10 / 6.00 mm
· K-10½ / 6.50 mm
· L-11 / 8.00 mm
· M-13 / 9.00 mm
· N-15 / 10.00 mm


YARN WEIGHTS
(coming soon)




TRANSLATIONS
Please send me an email if you see any mistakes or if you can fill in the blanks! Click to zoom in.

A huge thank you to everyone who helped me add and edit! I couldn't have done it without you.
German - Karin Pichler, Patrick Stocker, Lydia Tresselt
French - Cathy Dutrieux
Portuguese - Alessandra Hayden
General Editing - Kelly Dunigan


HOW TO CONVERT OUNCES TO YARDS
Usually I do my best to avoid math. But I've learned to be friendly with my middle school nemesis in order to keep doing what I love, designing patterns. Converting yarn weight to length takes some cross-multiplying, but if you know your times tables (or have a calculator handy) then you'll be just fine. 

It's useful when you're trying to figure if you have enough yarn for a specific project. Especially when you have a different yarn than what's called for in the pattern (but the same weight of course!). Here's an example using Vanna's Choice, a worsted weight yarn.

1. Check the yarn label on your yarn. Find the total ounces and yards per skein.
Vanna's Choice: 170 yds / 3.5 oz

2. You can skip this step, but if you're curious you can figure the yds per oz by dividing yds by oz. Just for giggles and maybe a gold sticker.
Vanna's Choice: 170/3.5 = ~48.5 yds per oz

3. Math Word Problem ALERT: Raise your hand if you have a question and I'll come to your desk.
A hat pattern calls for 200 yds of worsted weight yarn. You weigh your Vanna's Choice and find that you have 4.6 oz total. Do you have enough yarn?
(show your work)

Looking at your yarn label again, if 3.5 oz = 170 yds, then 4.6 oz = x yds



cross 'em up
and you get...

(170 yds)(4.6 oz) = (3.5 oz)(x yds)

782 = 3.5x

solving for x by dividing both sides by 3.5 (still with me?) you get...

782 / 3.5 = x

223.4 = x

SCORE! You have about 223.4 yds and just enough to work the pattern.

I need a nap now.



play hard ... play hooky

Copyright @ 2014, Liz McQueen, aka Playin’ Hooky Designs. You may use this guide for all your crochet endeavors: personal use, gifts, charity, and sales. However, please respect the time it took to create this reference. No part of this document may be copied for use as your own work.